Outside in the morning, inside after lunch
This is not a typical October day. The forecast at 07:00 had about 18 °C, a north wind gusting 30 to 35 km/h, light to moderate showers all day (a 60 to 70 per cent chance most hours from 10:00, driest before 09:30) and thunder only from about 18:00, after the ship has you back. So the walk front-loads everything outdoors (Splantzia, the Minoan dig on Kastelli, the shipyards, the lighthouse) and keeps the afternoon for roofs: the Maritime Museum, a long lunch in an old bathhouse, the synagogue before it closes at 15:00, and the Archaeological Museum, where the Minoan finds from the morning's dig are on show.
| Time | Where | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 08:00 | Off the ship, shuttle or bus 13 to the Market Hall | About 25 minutes. Read stop 1 on the way. |
| 09:00 | Splantzia, then Kastelli and the Neoria | Coffee under the plane tree if you need it. |
| 10:15 | Breakwater to the lighthouse, back round the harbour | Weather permitting. |
| 11:30 | Firkas and the Maritime Museum | 09:00 to 17:00, €4. |
| 12:30 | Lunch indoors: Tamam, Zambeliou 49 | Out of the showers. |
| 13:45 | Etz Hayyim synagogue | Closes 15:00 on Fridays. |
| 14:30 | Taxi to the Archaeological Museum, Chalepa | 08:00 to 20:00, €15 with audio guide. |
| 16:00 | Taxi from the museum to Souda, or back to the shuttle | All aboard is before 18:00: check the ship's time. |
Souda to Chania
- Shuttle. Port shuttles usually set down by the Market Hall or the Kydonias bus station and 1866 Square, about ten minutes' walk from the harbour. Ask the ship where it stops and when the last one leaves.
- City bus 13. Souda port to the Market Hall about every 20 minutes, about 25 minutes, €1.60 from a kiosk or €2.50 on board. The port stop is just outside the terminal.
- Taxi. About €15 to €25 and 15 to 20 minutes. Agree the fare or watch the meter. In the rain, a taxi from the Archaeological Museum straight to the ship is the easy finish.
What to order
- Dakos: a barley rusk softened with grated tomato, olive oil and soft mizithra cheese.
- Kalitsounia: small cheese pies, sometimes with mint or greens.
- Chochlioi boubouristi: snails fried face down in oil with rosemary and vinegar.
- Gamopilafo: the wedding pilaf, rice cooked in meat stock with butter.
- Staka: the skimmed cream of goat's butter, often with eggs.
- Kydoni glyko: quince spoon sweet. The quince is named for Kydonia, the Minoan town under your feet.
- Raki (tsikoudia): usually arrives free at the end of a meal.
Lunch indoors at Tamam (Cretan and Ottoman dishes in a former bathhouse), or To Maridaki in Splantzia for fish. Coffee or raki at Platanos under the plane tree. Bougatsa Iordanis near the bus station for a breakfast pastry, sweet or with cheese, until it sells out.
Sources and checking
Researched on the morning of the visit from the Ministry of Culture and museum pages, the Etz Hayyim synagogue's own site, the Greek-Swedish excavation publications, OpenStreetMap and the Open-Meteo forecast; each pin names its source. Some details, such as the shuttle stop and the mosque's opening, could not be confirmed and are marked as such. Assembled with Claude Opus 5.5; the two reading tracks were written by Claude Sonnet 5.5 from those notes.